Royal Cobra

Moving Forward

2012-02-12T16:36:00.000-08:00

Today, I completed filling and smoothing the left side of Josie's engine bay.

I am very pleased.

Here's the fender after the self-etching primer and first coat of gray filler-primer were applied.

Here's a close-up...

... and here's a shot of the radiator support.

I didn't go crazy filling holes in the support because this area will probably get covered - eventually. In the mean time, I want it to look better than factory.

Soon, both areas will get a coat of red oxide filler primer before I sand with 320-grit to bring up the imperfections.

Then, another coat of gray primer, some touch-up sanding, and I think I'll be done.

Progress on the engine bay!

2012-02-02T19:42:00.000-08:00

A few photos are in order, just to prove that I really am working on the car. As you saw in the last post, I'm filling and smoothing Josie's engine bay.

Here is the driver's side Inner Fender well the day she arrived from the wrecking yard...

And this is the same fender after all the filling and smoothing is done.

I've got to say, I'm a happy DIY car buff.

Now for the self-etching primer, some filling primer and sanding, and then the sealer.
By the way...
the other looks just as nice - perhaps, better - because I've already sprayed the heavy-fill primer.

Busy Year

2012-01-22T13:48:00.000-08:00

Its been a busy year... Mostly with work and trying to make my start in a new career, and honestly, I completely forgot the Blog.

I have done a lot of cleaning, inspecting, and improving on "Josie", however; and she's starting to improve.

Filling and Smoothing the Engine BayI decided to fill and smooth Josie’s engine bay. Originally, I intended to have the work done at which-ever paint shop I used but decided to do the work myself. It is tedious and dirty and, sometimes, frustrating, but I am learning a little about welding and especially about welding sheet metal but my repairs are successful.

Taking this on started with the radiator support. The car came without an engine and transmission; inspection of the engine bay made it obvious that some genius dropped the motor during removal and bent the hell out of the radiator support. They also put a fair sized dent in the passenger side floorboard at the same time. I guess this is why some mechanics just work in junk yards.

I decided to repair the support myself; first, to say I did it myself and second to save money and time. I only needed a small TIG welder which I found for $125 at a tool supply store. Now, I'm learning to weld.

To fill and smooth the engine bay requires removing all the wire harnesses, plumbing, and components built or bolted into the car.

At this writing, the newest of Fox Body Mustangs rolled off the assembly line over nineteen years ago; most of the wires in their harnesses have brittle insulation, cracked or broken connectors, and evidence of over-heating at the connector ends. This is the case throughout the car so removing the wiring now only completes the first step of rebuilding a new harness – there is no wasted time or effort.

The plan is for Josie to be a daily driver so we will not be going for a full-blown, custom engine bay. Nevertheless, we want the result to look clean. Although some things can't easily be changed – brake lines and air conditioning hoses, for example - we will probably not have more than two or three wire harnesses when the car is complete, and I plan to route those beneath the fenders.

Filling holes is not easy when the welder has not held a torch (let alone a MIG welder) in over 30 years. For my limited experience and because the body is only 16-gauge sheet, the biggest issue lies in forming a nice bead of molten metal when filling the holes. I am also using a self-darkening welding visor and finding the right darkening shade setting only exasperated the situation; if you cannot see to work, you cannot form a nice bead.

This is the driver's side inner fender after welding...

... and this is the passenger side.
Now we do a bit of straightening and apply a minimum of body filler.
It can only get better so on we go.

Back again with a new direction

2011-02-22T20:22:00.001-08:00

Just a quick note to get re-started in a new direction.

Due to the dismal job market, the money situation forced me to set aside the Daytona for something substantially less expensive. Someday, perhaps, the Coupe will reemerge but for now, we leave Takhli with great memories of fun, so far as we were able to go.

From here on, I'll be directing efforts to the restoration/modification of the 1993 Mustang Coupe you see below. This is it on the day it arrived; a little worse for wear but full of potential.

My wife and I are naming her "Josie", after my grand daughter.

Many little projects

2009-06-29T20:24:00.000-07:00

Well, once again, its been quite a while since posting anything here. My son Matt should be all over me for not doing so but looking for work, traveling, looking for work, keeping the house painted and maintained in the blairing Tucson summer sun - not to mention looking for work - take something out of me.

However,...

I have been busy with a few little projects, centered around construction of Takhli.

One secret to completing really large projects is to break them up into smaller, more managable projects. Instead of looking at a garage full of dissassembled automobile and boxes, it is much better to see the garage full of small projects that together make the entire project come together. Believe me, after restoring Matt's '65 Corvair, my '63 Split-Window Corvette, and tearing apart, servicing, and rebuilding countless F-4 Wild Weasles, you can trust me on this. You make "Swiss Cheese" out of the project by punching holes into it, a little at a time, until its all gone.

Lately, I've torn down two salvaged Traction-lock differentials to find parts for the build. I learned some things about the Ford 8.8 differential carriers in the process (another secret to completing large projects) but as far as "servicable" is concerned, there were less than good results. The "trac-loc" carrier, from the Thunderbird rear suspension clip I salvaged probably had over 180K miles on it. Consequently, the entire unit, less the housing itself, will need changing out. Though it will be more expensive than I wished, the good news is that I can rebuild it myself with new and better parts than original, for less than the cost of buying the whole thing new. I'm happy to report, also, that I still won't bust my budget on this part of the build.

Another little project is refurbishment of my SN95 Mustang front steering spindles. They turned out wonderfully. Purchased from a fellow FFR Forum contributor, the spindles were dressed-up to look pretty online but really covered with painted over rust. Still, I paid a fair price and the important thing is that they were not damaged or over-heated to the state of carbon by a car fire. After a little elbow grease and some bead-blasting, they were ready for anti-corrosion treatment and paint. Sorry I don't have a photo but they look like forged aluminum in their silver-aluminum paint. Very trick.

My first paint job

2009-03-31T20:19:00.000-07:00

Well, I'm back to show you the results of my repairs and paint work, on my son's motor cycle fairing. I must say that I am fairly proud of the results, considering this is my first attempt at a full blown paint job using automotive finishes. Not only that, the paint color is metalic silver - not the easiest color to apply.

I took on this project for two reasons. First; my son needed the work done and asked me if I thought I could do it. It was a chance for me to do something for him that he really needed to have done, and I don't get that chance too often now that we live almost on opposite sides of the continent. Second; I wanted a chance to work with automotive finishes, in preparation for the work I know is coming with Takhli's finishing.

The opening photo is obviously the left side fairing. It had only surface scratches and some scuffing on the clear coat, but because the other side and all other plastic parts were to be painted, I chose to paint the entire piece, rather than simply try to rub out the flaws and apply clear coat.

The bike needed a new paint job because the area around the right turn signal mount was broken out, and the front fender was nearly in two pieces. ABS can be a problem to repair if you don't use the correct welding chemical. In this case, the repairs were made using Weld-on 4 Solvent.

This stuff is manufactured by IPS Corporation, out of Gardena, California and meant specifically for welding Acrylic. It is "clear, water thin, moderately fast curing solvent cement..."

Where repairs were required, they were performed prior to removing factory paint and primer. Once the initial repair was made - that is, the solvent had set and cured - repair seams were backed up with three or four layers of carbon fiber veil (available at better hobby shops). This stuff is great! I've used it when making my flying models and applied it in the same method.

Method:

Clean the area to be reinforced with alchohol.

Cut strips of CF veil to the length needed and approximately 1/2-inch wide.

Lay the veil over the seam and wet with drops of the solvent. The solvent will wick into the weave of CF and start to soften the ABS beneath; as the solvent starts to work, gently rub the veil into the plastic.

The solvent will evaporate within a minute or so but the plastic is still some what soft; apply another layer of veil over the first by over-lapping both the repair seam and the edge of the first layer of veil. Use more solvent as required.

Repeat step 4 on the opposite edge of the first layer of veil.

Finally, lay a last layer over the area of the repair seam.

Carbon Fiber veil is only about 0.002-inch thick, so the entire repair buildup is only a matter of about 6-8 thousandths of an inch high; easily covered and blended by several coats of filler paint - if you need to lay it on the surface of the fender, for instance.

After repairs were completed, paint was removed down to the ABS plastic and feathered well out from the repair areas using 320 grit wet or dry paper, followed by 400 grit paper. The sanded ABS was given at least two coats of "Bulldog" brand Adhesion Promoter and then as many coats of primer as were needed to level the painted area. I used High Build Primer, from SEM. Mimimal plastic filler was used. Actually, almost none but the tiny amount needed to fill persistent low spots, after several coats of primer.

Primer was "soft blocked" with 400 grit wet or dry until low spots were gone; the entire part was cleaned with Prep-sol, and then the Chroma Base base coat was applied in several directions to insure complete coverage; that was followed by Dupont Clear Coat.

Once the parts had dried for 24 hours, I used wet 600, 1000, 1500, and lastly 2000 grit wet or dry sand paper to rub out the clear coat: That was followed with Meguire's three step "Deep Crystal System." The results are nearly as good as factory and I am very happy.

I think my son will be as well.

Been away too long.

2009-03-24T21:16:00.000-07:00

Well, obviously, I've not written anything for a while. Its been a crazy time since the last post and I have had my hands full, taking care of life.

As far as Takhli is concerned, she's moving slowly ahead. Got a nice set of Cobra front brake calipers for a really good price; started buying the parts to rebuild her rear end, too (Did that come out right?).

Any way..., I've started the differential tear-down and inspection. Needed a set of side gears (also known as "spider" gears) and had to make the purchase from a FoMoCo dealership. I got them at employee price so I didn't have to pay an arm and a leg. However, I need just about everything except the differential case and the carrier housing, so I expect to pay upwards of five Franklins for the rebuild.

That's okay; I want her as new as she can be.

In the next few days I plan to post a few photos of my son's motor cycle fairings. I've just finished painting them and must say that they look pretty good for my first attempt at automotive type paint work.

In the mean time, remember...
Be yourself.
Every one else is taken.

Cheers.

Modifying my Cobra air cleaner

2008-11-24T10:17:00.000-08:00

I want to run the Cobra oval air cleaner on my engine. Problem is, the air cleaner doesn't clear the firewall in the Coupe's engine compartment and so, the cleaner assembly needs modification.

The reason is that, as it comes from the factory the air cleaner's carburetor opening is, like other air cleaner assemblys, in the center. As you can see from the photo above, I moved the opening in the cleaner assembly's base toward the back of the cleaner.

To do this, I removed the entire flange and modified the base of the assembly to install a K&N Stub stack; cut the base around the opening off-center and reversed the cutout portion, to move the opening back about 2 inches; I then added 0.015 inch aluminum plates to the top and bottom of the base, for reinforcements.

The stub stack was secured to the bottom of the modified base using aviation grade stainless steel hardware, and a new threaded brass sleeve was installed into the stack to relocate the assembly's cover-nut and stud. I also polished the aluminum base inside the air cleaner.

I'm quite proud of the finished article; it really looks good and adds to the appearance of the Dragon.

If anyone would like complete instructions, just give me a message and I'll get them to you.

Installing the T56 Transmission

2008-11-10T19:48:00.000-08:00

As you know, I've decided to go with a 331w engine. Even though the Dragon is likely to deliver very good torque through a wide RPM band, I truly want Takhli to be a Grand Touring car in every sense. For this reason, I will also install a Tremec six-speed T56 transmission.

So few Coupes seem to use them - the most common transmission installations use the Mustang's 5-speed T5 or one of the 5-speed TKO’s; either the TKO 500 or 600.

What is the reason for this? Maybe cost, but I suspect the primary reason is practicality. For instance; the FFR cars are designed to accept T5s or TKOs. The T-56 on the other hand, with its greater overall length, becomes an issue; the drive shaft must be even shorter than it already is and angles in extreme bounce and jounce suspension movements become a problem.

Will the T-56 even fit in the FFR frame? Has anyone considered the T-56 and not moved forward with their idea? I'm 'gonna find out first hand.

Repeated engine/transmission installations and removals are more than likely during the build, just to ensure everything lines up correctly and that adequate clearances exist. In the long run, the only real way to tell if the T-56 is the right transmission for Takhli, is to install it.

The T-56 works with IRS much better due to the static condition of the differential. A drive shaft from a Viper works but needs adaptation, just the same as the Mustang’s, in order to mate with the Ford 8.8 differential.

Some builders using the T-56 found setting the engine slightly forward in the chassis easier than relocating the rear chassis cross member back 3- to 4-inches. If this is the path taken for the build, change in the car’s center of gravity is likely but may be mitigated somewhat by the T-56’s approximately 50 lbs heavier weight, over the T5.

Unfortunately, and aside from probable changes in the car’s center of gravity, other problems arise when moving the engine, such as header clearance issues; changes to fuel plumbing and wiring; and other necessitated modifications.

One builder installed an aftermarket T-56 using the bell housing for the Windsor 5.0L, without any "major" modifications to the car. Modifications that were accomplished included notching the transmission’s rear mount bracket and tailpiece, and moving the engine forward (only ½ inch). The shifter ended up beneath one of the ¾ inch cross bars in the transmission tunnel, which was cut away. The transmission mount came from Mike Forte and the drive shaft is shorter than all examples found in the builders manual; the car has IRS.

A few builders have experienced problems with the reversed rotation speedometer drive, including broken cables; stiff reversed drive mechanisms; and the necessity for shims at the “reverser;” or re-routing the cable. Most of these attempts corrected the problem for only short times, until an Autometer Electric Speedometer driven by the Autometer sender for the T56 was installed.

This is also an issue with the TR3550 transmission installations. Calls to Autometer verified that T-56/TR3550 installations do not require reverser mechanisms but that different drive gears, available with different numbers of teeth, should be used.

On the track the T56's sixth gear probably isn't going to help but it's great for freeway cruising.

Build an Engine Test Stand

2008-11-02T15:55:00.000-08:00

If you’ve visited lately, you may have read in my previous post that my little Dragon is running quite well. Did it run well at the first attempt to start? Well, no; I had to do some rewiring before it would do so. It seems that I had a choice of starter solenoids and the wiring directions didn’t consider this installer’s time away from tinkering with cars. But with the wiring corrected, she fired right up.

Did she run well after she started? Well, yes and no.

On the “no” side, I had to re-adjust the valves for a smooth run. Then, I couldn’t determine why the engine would not run above 3000 RPM. Several attempts at determining the issue led to my favorite method of technical trouble shooting: I left the engine, grabbed a cold one, some chips and salsa, and sat down to think it over.

I sat there over the course of more than one cold ones; I grabbed another Michelob and finished my chips.

Nothing...

I got up and tinkered with this; I went to something else and tinkered with that…

I sat my beer on a shelf and finally saw the problem. There it was, shinning in brilliant red, new technology! It was my MSD (Multiple Spark Distributor) Electronic Engine Ignition Control, with the factory installed 3000RPM limiting chip.

A quick, “out-with-the-old, in-with-the-new”, and little Dragon about jumped from its engine test stand.

With a 7000 RPM limit chip now installed, she showed no sign of valve float, noisy lifters, “knock-knock-knock, I’m gonna self destruct,” or any major nightmare inducing behavior. She just wanted to keep climbing and climbing the RPM ladder. After about two hours of run time, we made a steady consistent run toward the limit, restraining ourself to 6250 RPM.

That’s the “yes” side of the story and the reason for this entry: my engine test stand.

If you are an engine builder, or if you plan to build, modify, or otherwise work on a car that entails an engine build/rebuild, I highly recommend that you consider building an engine test stand. Doing so allows running the engine for break-in and tuning with total access to the engine.

Let’s say that you don’t run the engine before installation and that you’re building a Fox Body Mustang. Let’s go on to say that once you start the engine, you discover a leak at the rear main or coming from the oil pan, or front cover. What’cha gonna do?

Rear main – pull the engine or drop the transmission.
Oil pan gasket – maybe you’ll have room to work; probably not unless you at least lift the engine off the mounts. Are you gonna crush the part mounted near your fire wall in the process?
Front cover – drain and pull the radiator to get room for vibration damper puller and other tools; start removing the engine accessories to get to the front cover; probably scratch the blazes out of ‘bling’ you spent so much money on; make your repair; put it all together again.

The point is, any of these are done much easier without an automobile wrapped around the engine. You can find engine test stands advertised now in the back pages of most of the car magazines – or you can build one.

I built the Dragon’s engine test stand for very cheap, using the radiator and “K-member” from my donor Mustang, along with some mild-steel pipe and a swamp cooler stand that I found in a scrap heap. I used PVC pipe and peg-board for a control panel and installed a vacuum gauge and dwell-tach from my engine tuning tool box, to monitor the engine; my BBQ thermometer is taped to the upper radiator hose to monitor engine temperature and an electric fan blows air through the radiator, to keep things cool. Throttle control is done with a PVC pipe throttle lever and a stiff plastic push rod.

Cost: $35.00.

Okay, I did need to also buy some exhaust manifolds and a couple of used mufflers to keep things quiet, and because I don’t have Takhli’s exhaust system (it comes in the kit). But the total expense was still less than a pair of Franklins.

The great thing is that the reason and trouble of building the stand in the first place, paid for itself on the first run – I did find an oil leak behind my vibration damper. I also found a leak at the oil pressure sending line.

Both of these leaks would have been a hassle to repair with the engine installed in the car. On the test stand, I had 360 degree access to the engine on three planes of reference: above and below; front and behind; and either side. Also, I could sit down and do the work at eye level, up close. Building the stand also allowed me to determine the best method of wiring the ignition before the car is built.

If you're builing a kit car, build an engine test stand for yourself, as well.

A special "thanks" goes out to my friend and all around good-guy, "RJ" (also known as "alpha dog"), for his advice and second set of eyes, during the inital start up. He also fronted the $$ for my battery.

Thanks, RJ.

Cheers to all.

The Dragon breaths flames!

2008-08-27T22:55:00.000-07:00

It seems that concerning this car I give everything a name. In this case, "The Dragon" is Takhli's engine assembly. I've been busy the last few weeks preparing the engine for its first start and tuning; that effort came to fruition Monday, 25 August with flames, smells, and noise only an engine head can love.

This dragon's first life started as a factory replacement, 1987 Ford Truck 5.0 liter small-block. But it wasn't used in a truck; it was probably used in a Mustang because the installed fuel injection is from Ford's little pony. After living its first life under the yoke of an abusive master (the engine had more than one bent valve from striking a piston), the little lizard was discarded to a scrap-heap, where it was destined for a cruel death in the metal shredder and melting pot.

Yet fate prevailed. For I, a brave and true master-wizard of reciprocating power, knew the little engine had more life and fire, and I lovingly carried it to the future home of The Royal Cobra.

Okay; enough of the Wizard BS.

The bottom line is that a block was needed for the engine and I prefer to build rather than purchase outright. I wanted to add more displacement by lengthening the crankshaft throw - in gear-head speak, it's known as "stroking" - so, the only things used from the old engine was the retainer for the roller lifters, and the block itself. All other parts are new.

The reason I call the engine "The Dragon", is that my engine machinist - Larry's Engine and Marine - uses a dragon as the company mascot. They came upon a dragon from a term used by their racing buddies for good-luck wishes: "Drag on." I think it's an appropriate name for an engine that will go into a Cobra replica.

Here are a few specifications and features:

332 cubic inches; more displacement than the original 302, but not so much that excessive torque would necessitate major modifications to the drive train.

Roush/AFR 1430 aluminum heads with 185cc intake runners; 2.02inch intake valves; and 1.6inch exhaust valves.

The 58cc combustion chambers, flat-top forged aluminum JE pistons, and the 3.25-inch stroke develop a little over 9.8:1 compression ratio. A Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Cam (270 degrees intake duration with 0.540 lift; 274 degrees exhaust duration with 0.544 lift) and Ford Racing Performance Parts 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms move titanium valves.

She didn't start the first time, due to some starter/ignition wiring issues but once the wiring was correct, the little dragon came to life and wanted to just keep running. She runs just fine on 87 octane pump gas.

The Royal Cobra

2008-08-12T22:49:00.000-07:00

To all who visit and read the words written here: Greetings, and welcome to the Royal Cobra.

Before I start, a big "thank you" to my son and to my best girl - my wife, Susan - for all the help, understanding, and support they give me. Thanks Matt; this is going to be fun. Thank you sweetheart.

So. What is the Royal Cobra all about? Its "Takhli", or "King Cobra" as spoken in the Tai language, and pronounced "talk-lee."

Why call the blog takhli? The name comes from an Air Base in Tailand - Takhli RTAFB - used by the U.S. Air Force during the Vietnam War. We flew F-105Ds and Gs out of Takhli, and a very close friend of mine was stationed there. He was and still is a great influence in my life. More on my friend later, perhaps.

For now, there are other reasons for the blog's name: It's about a car. The car in the photo. And if you're intuitive you'll know that the car is a Cobra. More exactly, a replica of the famous Le Mans winning Daytona Coupe. Takhli will be built from a Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe kit - their replica of six purely race-bred original cars designed by Pete Brock in the early sixties, to combat Ferrari.

A replica is good. Because if you're at all into cars, you may know also that any of the original cars bearing Carrol Shelby's name are grotesquely over-priced, especially considering their ancient handling qualities as measured against todays performance cars. True; they do hold a very important place in automotive history because in their time, they were the cars to beat, and they raised hell on road racing circuits where ever they raced.

Let's face it - the normal joe can't dream of owning an original. Especially this Joe and more especially, any of the six original coupes. One of the six is said to be the most valuable car in private ownership, in the United States - I think the figure is around $1.6 million. There are less expensive "continuations" of the type built by Superformance in collaboration with Pete Brock but still, far out of my budget.

If the everyday enthusist wants to own a Daytona Coupe, it must almost certainly be an owner-built replica, if anything. To wet the appetite, a few specifications for Takhli follow:

The goal for vehicle weight is approximately 2500 pounds, and I think that's high.

Power is in keeping with the originals; a small block Windsor Ford of 332 cubic inch displacement and about 425 horsepower.

95 inch wheel base; shorter than a "Vette", longer than a Porsche SC.

Six-speed Tremec T56 transmission, fully independent rear susspension, four-wheel disk-brakes.

I'm hoping to order the kit by Christmas but the engine and drive train are well under way. More on that part of the build next time.